If you've recently found yourself on the brink of a new chapter in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, congratulations on embarking on this fascinating journey. I vividly recall my own initial experiences and discoveries when I first set foot in Riyadh, leaving our home town nearly 25 years ago with two young children. Riyadh is a city where the pace of life dances to a different rhythm, where a casual "Inshallah" (if God wills it) can hold more weight than you might expect, and where the kids quickly teach you a thing or two about adaptation.
I'm here to be your guide and share some of the insights and anecdotes I've gathered along the way. From the quirks of grocery shopping to the importance of making connections in this vibrant city. Whether you're planning a move or already settled in, these tales and tips are meant to make your Riyadh experience a bit smoother.
So, come along as we take a deep dive into the heart of Riyadh's charm and eccentricities. We'll explore its vast landscapes, unravel the mysteries of bureaucracy, and even introduce you to the curious case of Riyadh's feline inhabitants. Riyadh, my friends, is an adventure waiting to be written.
1. Patience
Things don't work the same here as they do where you have come from (London that is). I remember when I first got here, getting cross with the experience I had with trying to access what I needed from the GP. Inshallah is a phrase used here a lot. If it is God's will, it will be. And for good reason too. Getting cross and being rude and demanding does not help. If you can speak Arabic then that is such a bonus. Make an effort to learn some basics. My tip is to smile, take a deep breath and regroup if you aren't getting anywhere. Sometimes getting a bit of perspective helps with the process. Good advice in general perhaps?
2. If you are alright, the kids will be alright
My main priority was that our children need to be ok, if they are ok then we will be ok. We are the grown-ups here after all. But actually, they take their cues from you. More than you know and more than you care to admit. From my observations, there is a timing sweet spot and once the kids are in secondary school (UK system) the more you are playing Russian roulette with your move. That is not to say that it won't work but there is a lot at stake. If your family have been offered a great opportunity out here then you will make it work - some families come out and commit 100%, some just send the breadwinner out here and see how it goes, and some with older children split their time between two countries, some send their children to boarding school and both work here... horses for courses.
3. Shopping in Riyadh
Riyadh gives SUCH good shopping mall. It was only when we went to Egypt on holiday, did I get the perspective of how good the shopping malls are here. They have a high standard that you see in Dubai, Bahrain, Qatar... Finding the right clothes will take time to find what works with your style; yes, there are recognisable European and international brands (hello Debenhams, Marks & Spencer, H&M, Zara) but everything is ever so slightly different because of local styles. Goods carry a 15% VAT (as of 2020) so you may find yourself thinking 'Oh I can get this cheaper at home' but there are sales at different times of the year and you can get a bargain. And if you like a bargain then get yourself to a Souq (or market) and the 5.75 shops. There are lots dotted around the city to go and explore.
Customer service is quite another experience - it's hit and miss (most would say miss). Sometimes you may just have a return or refund policy of just 48 hours and the shop assistants have not been empowered to help their customers. You will be lucky to find a changing room (maybe an overhang from COVID times?) - in other words, get educated on what your rights are, learn some Arabic and be polite.
4. Groceries shopping in Riyadh
Whether it is for food or anything else, this city offers you what your heart desires. Riyadh (as of 2023) is a city of 9 million people. That is bigger than all of Qatar, Bahrain and Oman put together (according to 2021 stats). But contrary to the UK, where you can get pretty much everything for your weekly shop in one place, in Riyadh you can quite easily find yourself going to different supermarkets for different things and without a car this is even more time-consuming. If you like strong British cheese, Tamimi is your place; fresh fish from Carrefour and LuLu's has a decently large stock of international products. Of course, all of these supermarkets do all of these things, it's just that some of them do it better and everyone has different opinions too. Get out there are start trying different foods.
5. Dining in Riyadh
The dining experiences in Riyadh are plentiful, but it's a rapidly evolving landscape (much like everything else around here!). If you rewind the clock to the pre-2019 era, you'll find that restaurants and cafes were often strictly segregated, catering either to men or families. However, since the turning point of 2019, Riyadh's restaurant scene has witnessed a remarkable transformation. The city has experienced a culinary renaissance, with an explosion of diverse dining options. From local delicacies to international cuisine, there's now an astonishing array of choices to tantalise your taste buds. Whether you're craving traditional Saudi dishes like succulent kebabs and aromatic biryanis or yearning for international flavours, you'll find it all here. Riyadh's culinary scene has truly embraced inclusivity, inviting everyone to savour the rich tapestry of flavours that this dynamic city has to offer. While it's incredibly easy to stumble upon well-known global franchises like Hakkasan, Entrecote, Sexy Fish, Cipriani, Starbucks, and Shake Shack, don't forget to dig a bit deeper to unearth local independent gems that add a unique, authentic touch to Riyadh's vibrant culinary mosaic. The top tips to find something a bit different are to join local Facebook groups and follow pages like RIYADIZEN and Time Out Riyadh; the Foursquare City Guide is also a good download.
6. Navigating Bureaucracy in Riyadh
Driving licenses, entry/exit visas, iqama - you can't do much without getting these documents in place. The first two months after we arrived we had to wait to get our entry/exit visa in place so remember that if you have booked any travel outside of Saudi within that time may have to be cancelled because without an entry/exit visa, you won't be able to get back into the country. I'm not going to even attempt to explain the bureaucratic procedures that I encountered because a) I'm not even sure how they worked in the first place and b) by the time you are having to deal with it it will all have changed. Good luck and you will get there eventually.
7. Travelling from Riyadh - new places to go on holiday
As of Autumn 2023, some great discount airlines are operating out of Riyadh which wasn't that obvious when I was busy researching low-cost options while I was back home. It's all about having a different viewpoint on the world because your jumping-off point is different. Strangely I have had more holidays in Italy since moving to the Middle East than I ever have in one year living in the UK. All thanks to Wizz Air. Also check out Flynas, Pegasus and Flyadeal for more low-cost destinations for a quick hop away. People take weekend breaks in Bahrain (best to drive or get a driver), Dubai (a short hop on a plane) or how about the Maldives for a long weekend darling! For longer trip destinations Sri Lanka, Egypt, Jordan, and Malaysia are popular. You are really in a fantastic jumping-off place in Riyadh.
9. Saudi Arabia is massive
The Kingdom is the largest country in the Arabian Peninsula, and in Europe terms, it is nearly 4 times bigger than France. The country is full of amazing geographical diversity - and contrary to many people's opinions it is not just one big dune. It has mountains, snow, round green fields where it produces plenty of food for itself and exports a fair bit too, volcanos, blue bleu seas and coral to name a few of the surprising landscapes you can see from the air as you fly over. Take every opportunity to explore your new country - it's amazing.
10. Make the most of the bank holidays in Saudi Arabia
Keep an eye out for the bank holidays that fall in September (Saudi National Day), February (Foundation Day), April (Eid al Fitr) and June (Eid al Adr). Because Saudi is so huge, it takes time to get around so plan your travels using up some of these bank holidays.
11. Saudi Arabia has distinct seasons
Yes, you read that right. It gets cold in Riyadh so remember to pack your boots, coats and jumpers (and hats and gloves). It's not all blazing sunshine and swimming pool parties out here. At least not for a few months of the year (December - February). They officially declare summer to be over very early in September but the biggest sign (other than the temperature) is that the local Saudi men change their thobe (full-length loose fitting garment with long sleeves) colour from white to earth colours.
12. Cats are everywhere in Riyadh
Riyadh has a big problem with abandoned and unneutered cats. They are everywhere so if you are hankering after a cat, then you will not have to look very far to give one of the poor abandoned cats a new home. There are lots of pet shops selling sad-looking pedigree cats but if you look (not too) closely at the homeless cats trotting around outside of shops and inside of compounds, there are some beautiful fancy breeds up for grabs too.
Riyadh is more than just its landmarks and bustling streets; it's a city of experiences, challenges, and discoveries. Whether you're here temporarily or for the long haul, there's always something new to learn and explore. Embrace the nuances, adapt to the rhythm, and find your own space in this vast metropolis. Remember, every city has its quirks, and Riyadh is no exception. What would you add from your first experiences?
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