In February 2023 we took a trip to Al Ula from Riyadh, approximately 1000 kilometers away. Having recently purchased our new car and with a few extra days of holiday thanks to the February bank holiday, it was the perfect excuse to get on the road and explore our new country.
Al Ula is one of the big flagship tourist destinations that Saudi Arabia has to offer and whenever I see images posted on Instagram, it looks so glamorous and well, expensive to visit.
But what about the other side of Al Ula - for the regular tourist, the one that doesn't want to drop thousands of SAR on a night in an expensive hotel and have all the private guides and all the helicopters on hand?
Is this even possible?
Getting There
We did the distance in one day - leaving around 5 am and arriving just in time for sundowners at 6 pm. One long drive but visually so interesting, not what I expected. It's best to view it as two stretches - Riyadh - Hail and then Hail - Al Ula. There are plenty of petrol stations on the way to Hail but make sure you have a full tank and plenty of snacks and water before departing from Hail to Al Ula because I don't remember seeing many petrol stations once we had left Hail. We took our own food and just pulled up for a quick pee stop and picnic on the go. Between Riyadh and Hail there was plenty of opportunity to grab food at the petrol stations. It was not a time for leisurely lunches - we were on a mission to get there before it got dark.
Petrol station toilets were ... well... interesting. Most were really clean but think hole-in-the- floor jobs. And then once you were past Hail, there were no official toilets. Think hole-in-the-sand jobs.
Once we were passed Hail the roads were quiet with the most challenging things to get around being the MASSIVE mobile homes/portacabins on their way up to NEOM. Very wide units. But the roads were empty and the road surfaces were in great condition.
If you aren't driving then you can fly to Jeddah and rent a car or get the bus if you aren't in a hurry. Al Ula has its own small airport so check out whether you can fly direct. Having a car in Al Ula (preferably a 4x4) means you have total freedom - public transport isn't established yet and Uber isn't going to take you into the desert for some random acts of offroading. Finding a tour to join is the easiest option if you don't have a car.
Finding Accommodation
Al Ula is blossoming on the tourist map, and while it's cradling a variety of accommodations, it's still just waking up to its potential. For those with a taste for the finer things, Habitas Alula and Banyan Tree stand as beacons of luxury. But keep your eyes peeled, as fresh options are sprouting up regularly. Forward-thinking will reward you with some unique stays—our own hunt on booking.com unearthed a trove of charming 'farm stays.' These gems, often booked out due to overlapping events, offer a rustic-chic glamping experience nestled in date farms. Imagine a private oasis, walled off for peace of mind, complete with tents with decent beds and proper mattresses and clean bedding, outdoor BBQs, and a basic one-story building housing your essentials. It's a different kettle of fish compared to European self-catering standards, yet what might occasionally lack in amenities is more than compensated by the warmth of Saudi hospitality, ever eager to enhance your stay.
For a sneak peek into this pastoral paradise, check out the video below to see what a farm stay looks and feels like.
What To Do When You Get There....
We travelled when there was an ultra running festival and an upcoming music festival happening so there was a lot going on and accommodation was pretty booked up.
Here are four big takeaways that are useful to know when you are planning your trip:
Book your trips to Hegra as much in advance as possible, tours are limited and if you are there when they have events happening you will miss out. We wanted to go on the landrover tours but it was all booked out (sad face). This is a great resource https://www.experiencealula.com/en/plan-your-trip/what-to-do
There is plenty to do that is free and amazing. Al Ula's online marketing machine doesn't tell you this, it focuses on Hegra and expensive hotels. But there is so much to see and experience there - plenty to fill a week or two without a problem.
Having a 4 x 4 is a must to enjoy these places.
Visit the Tourist office when you get there - sometimes it's just nice to chat with someone and they are really helpful (especially if you have been so busy and have had no time to book anything!)
Top places to visit
We were there for three days which was no time at all. Here are the top 5 places that are top of our list:
AlUla’s Old Town - a beautiful place to wander around, tastefully restored and free; they have an authentic heritage design Harvey Nicks and Dunken Doughnuts!
Jabal AlFil (Elephant Rock) - great location to go off-road and check out all the beautiful camels!
Harrat viewpoint for sunset - we were a bit rushed getting here because the sun was almost set after driving all the way from Riyadh. There was live music, bean bags to chill out on, a live DJ and a restaurant and cafe. Definitely could have spent more time here.
Hegra - we missed the opportunity to book here but it's the headline activity at Al Ula
Shelal Cafe - a cool place to go for coffee and cake or breakfast; you pay a small entrance fee and weave through the rocks (think the entrance to Petra) and you arrive at a beautiful cafe with rugs on the floor.
So there you have it - we loved our visit to Al Ula and would go back in a heartbeat. The slightly humid temperature, light, rocks, lush greenery just made it so special. You know when you visit somewhere and it just has a beautiful spiritual vibe - well that is Al Ula for me. We could easily spend a week there and next time we will book ahead and also check out some of the amazing trail walking the area has to offer. And maybe a bit of wild camping too.
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